[010825-011125] PARIS – THIRD NIGHT

The Last Morning In Paris

It was the last morning in Paris. Well, not technically the last day—I was heading to Rome the next morning. But since I wouldn’t have time to do anything the next day except travel to the airport, this was practically my last day in Paris.

I decided to head to Montmartre Hill and left my accommodation, walking toward the metro station. On my way, I spotted a bakery with a lot of people gathered around. “Maybe the croissants here are different?” I thought, and ordered a double espresso, a croissant, and a pain au chocolat. Sadly, they were only slightly—just slightly—better than the croissant I had at a café the day before. Was it my palate that was the problem? I hurriedly finished my meal and headed to Montmartre Hill.

To be honest, I had been to Montmartre Hill before. I even went inside the basilica back then, so I wondered if it was really necessary to visit again. But not going to Montmartre Hill when you’re in Paris seemed strange. Plus, I was curious if it had changed much over the years. Turns out, not much had changed. Still, the panoramic view of Paris from the top was enjoyable, even though the weather was cold.

I went to the area where artists paint portraits, and a man started talking to me. He asked if I was from Korea, and I asked him how he could guess. (Honestly, I usually get asked if I’m Chinese, so I don’t know why this time was different.) He said it was just the vibe. Haha. Then he added that I had a French style and eventually asked if I wanted my portrait drawn. I declined because, honestly, I’m terrified of how I might look in someone else’s drawing. I quickly left the area.

That seemed to be the end of my Montmartre visit. But then! I had the idea of using ChatGPT here. This turned out to be a moment that completely changed my perspective of Montmartre Hill.

ARTETIK IRAULTZARA IRAULTZATIK ARTERA

Before this, when walking around Montmartre Hill, my thoughts were usually along the lines of, “Oh, this is pretty. Cute. Nicely decorated.” Sure, there were French phrases written here and there, but since I didn’t understand French, it was hard to engage deeply with the place. But now, I could take photos and ask ChatGPT what they meant—how could I not take advantage of that?

I asked GPT about the meaning of the texts in each photo I took. Below are GPT’s responses for each one.

1

This photo shows a commemorative plaque, likely dedicated to a figure like André Gill or a similar artist. It mentions a significant artist or lithographer, possibly Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, who famously captured Montmartre’s nightlife and culture. The plaque notes the artist’s impact and might commemorate where they lived or died.

2

The name “Le Troubadour” translates to “The Minstrel.” It evokes the spirit of the medieval traveling poets and musicians who spread stories through song. This fits well with Montmartre’s artistic and literary heritage.

3

This phrase means, “Hell is the absence of others.” It’s a twist on Jean-Paul Sartre’s famous quote, “Hell is other people.” While Sartre’s original line reflects the tension in human relationships, this version suggests that isolation and loneliness are the real torment.

4

Key Text Analysis

1. “Nous femmes, qu’avons-nous fait pour mériter si peu de considération?”

Translation: “We women, what have we done to deserve so little respect?”

Interpretation: This is likely a criticism of the discrimination or unfair treatment faced by women.

2. “J’ai porté plainte à 20 ans… À quel âge terminera-t-on?”

Translation: “I filed a complaint at 20… At what age will it end?”

Interpretation: This seems to criticize the slow processing speed or inaction of the French judicial system.

3. “J’accuse l’état pour son inaction dans le système judiciaire.”

Translation: “I accuse the state of inaction in the judicial system.”

Interpretation: This line expresses a critical stance toward the French judicial system’s failure to provide justice for victims.

4. “Honte à vous!”

Translation: “Shame on you!”

Interpretation: This strongly conveys feelings of anger and disappointment, directing a message of accountability toward those in charge.

Overall Interpretation

This poster delivers a sharp critique of women’s rightsjudicial justice, and state accountability. In a creative and expressive area like Montmartre, such posters conveying political and social messages are often found.

5

This Basque phrase translates to “From art to revolution, from revolution to art.” It underscores the idea that art and revolution are mutually reinforcing forces that drive societal change.

6

Spotify Playlist

7

1. “Darmanin = violeur”

Translation: “Darmanin = rapist”

Interpretation: This is a strong political message criticizing Gérald Darmanin, the French Minister of the Interior. Darmanin was previously investigated for allegations of sexual assault, and this phrase reflects public dissent against the controversy.

• Such messages often appear in street art as a form of protest or political opposition.

2. Various Stickers

• Names such as “Genos,” “XPERTS,” “HONEE MEOW,” and “Keur Queer” suggest these are promotional stickers for independent artists, brands, or social movements.

• “Oltre Mare,” which means “Beyond the Sea” in Italian, may symbolize a cultural or artistic project.

3. Portrait at the Top

• The red-toned face at the top of the wall likely represents a symbolic or artistic figure. It might be the work of a specific artist or a local icon.

4. Aged Wall and Graffiti

• The worn condition of the wall and its layered stickers and graffiti reflect the unique charm of Montmartre’s street art. Over time, it has accumulated cultural traces that contribute to its significance.

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The Wall of Love (Le Mur des Je t’aime)

1. Location

• Situated near Abbesses Park in Montmartre, this wall is a popular destination for tourists visiting Paris.

2. Content of the Wall

• The wall features the phrase “I love you” written in over 300 languages and dialects.

• The diverse languages symbolize respect for cultural and linguistic diversity, delivering the message that love transcends all.

3. Creators

• This wall was designed by French artists Frédéric Baron and Claire Kito.

• Baron reportedly started the project by asking people to write “I love you” in their native languages.

4. Wall Design

• The wall is composed of blue tiles, with small red marks scattered throughout. These red marks represent pieces of broken hearts, symbolizing how love can heal broken hearts.

5. Illustration Above the Wall

• Above the wall, there is a French phrase: “Aimer, c’est du bonheur pour les amants,” which translates to “Love is happiness for lovers.”

• The illustration enhances the romantic theme of the wall.

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Current Artistic Content

1. Text

“Aimer, c’est du désordre… alors aimons!”

Translation: “Love is chaos… so let’s love!”

Interpretation: This philosophical statement emphasizes the complexity and dynamism of love.

2. Female Figure

• The image of a woman in a blue dress seems to symbolically represent the emotions and chaos of love, visually highlighting the wall’s central theme of love.

3. Artistic Style

• The mural’s minimalist and symbolic style fits seamlessly with the context of the wall, even if other elements were once present.

Before using GPT, I’d never deeply considered the social or political messages embedded in Montmartre’s walls. I had ignorantly likened Montmartre to areas like Hongdae in Seoul. But through its vibrant street art, I realized this place carries the revolutionary spirit of Paris—a place of passion and expression, not just beauty. If I visit Paris again, I’ll return to Montmartre Hill, not for the Love Wall, but to see the updated wall art and discover its new messages.

Marais

With the intention of ending my last afternoon in Paris with some shopping, I headed to the Marais district. The cold weather had been brutal, so before leaving Montmartre, I warmed up with some vin chaud at a café overlooking Sacré-Cœur Basilica. I couldn’t help but worry about the next day—would I need a full day of rest after arriving in Rome?

Walking toward Marais, I felt Paris’s energy as a major city. The people’s styles harmonized perfectly with the city’s aesthetic, as if Paris and its inhabitants had grown to resemble one another over time. I wondered if I should have tried harder to make a friend here.

On the way, I stopped at a vintage shop and bought a coat and a corduroy jacket for €60 total. Once in Marais, my first stop was the concept store Merci. This wasn’t just a store for Korean tourists; it was packed with international visitors and locals alike. Merci had everything—clothes, perfumes, hand creams, dishes, and more. I picked up a hand cream for my Italian professor. (I avoided Italian brands—gifting one felt like giving kimchi to a Korean!) I thought that hand cream was a safe choice since New York is so dry.

Marais, Marais

After leaving Merci, I headed to a gallery nearby that I had saved on Google Maps. I enjoy looking at random artworks in galleries, as they often leave me with plenty to think about. That said, I’m not sure if my interpretations ever align with the artist’s intentions. I just think whatever I want to think. I always freely interpret the art, telling myself, “I’ll research what this piece was really about after my trip,” but then I forget about it for months. Still, I find the process of analyzing an unfamiliar piece without any background knowledge and forming a consistent interpretation based solely on my logic to be enjoyable. So, I’ll probably continue living like this. Anyway, the name of the gallery was Perrotin Paris.

The first works I saw inside were by Nikki Maloof. I didn’t take proper pictures of her work, but one thing’s for sure: she uses color masterfully. Her pieces are dominated by vivid primary colors. From what I recall, her works frequently depict people, children, flowers, insects, birds, animals, and food. The first piece I saw was of a large family seated around a massive dining table. The table was covered in food, and vegetables had fallen beneath it. Looking at the second piece, doesn’t it seem to carry some kind of cyclical message? Plants need snails and earthworms to grow, plants need bees to reproduce, and insects also rely on snails and earthworms to survive. Animals need plants to live, and ultimately, humans need all of the above to survive.

Her paintings feel abundant. Yet, the intense use of primary colors makes them somewhat tiring to look at. And the more I observed her work, the more I began to feel a strange sense of revulsion. It wasn’t the artwork itself that was repulsive; it was the overwhelming feeling of abundance. Is this truly abundance, or is it exploitation of nature? That thought began to creep in, and the sense of abundance transformed into one of repulsion.

Next, I entered the room featuring Chiffon Thomas’s works. After quickly glancing around, my impression was simply: incredible. I’m not sure what intentions Thomas had behind creating these pieces, but to me, it seemed like an intricate, precise exploration of the mechanization of humanity. The dazzling glass textures, the solid-looking metal components, and the contrasting lifelessness of the human body—they all left a strong impression. Glass and metal pieces clung to the human forms like leeches, almost as if they were replacing the human body. They clung so tightly that it became difficult to distinguish where the human ended and the machine began. But does it even matter where one starts and the other ends? Perhaps they’ve already become harmoniously unified. Maybe the machine’s identity is human, and the human’s identity is machine.

As I look at one of the eighth pictures now, I realize—wow, it resembles a sexual organ. I didn’t notice it at the time when I was close to it. Anyway, there’s much more I could say about the other pieces, but if I do, I’m not sure how much longer this writing will go on. So, I’ll end it here.

After leaving the gallery, I went to a falafel place where I’d eaten. Unfortunately, it was closed, so I ate a falafel plate at the shop next door. It was good, but not quite as good as the one from the original shop I’d visited years ago. After all, there’s a reason why the “original” holds its status. Later that day—though I don’t have photos of this—I spent about two hours scouring the Le BHV Marais department store in search of a nice coat. But I came away empty-handed. :/

Welcome to the Carrefour Time

Now it was time to buy souvenirs for my friends. I arrived back at the hotel around 9 PM, so I quickly headed to the nearby Carrefour. First, I bought jam for my roommates. I don’t know how it tastes… I just picked the one that Naver said was the most popular. Then, I added butter cookies, wine, truffle chips, and other French snacks to my basket before heading back to the hotel. On the way, I took my final pictures of a brasserie and the Eiffel Tower.

Although I endured rain and cold during my three days in Paris, it was a successful trip. I had always associated Paris with a certain gloominess, but all of that melancholic energy has now been washed away. Feeling content, I headed to Orly Airport the next day. To Rome—a new city and the next stop on my journey. (Though, since it was a low-cost airline, I had to walk to the plane on foot. LOL.)

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